The moon, ever shifting through phases of silvery light, holds unique, potent energies that can guide and support us through the sacred rhythms of life. Living in sync with the moon is especially helpful when it comes to pursuing our passion projects, as the progression of moon phases naturally supports creation, growth, culmination, and release. Each phase of the moon holds its own magic, which we can draw upon to assist us in these endeavors as well as to celebrate our achievements along the way. I’ve crafted a full moon herbal bath salt to help you do just that.

UNIQUE ENERGIES OF THE EIGHT PHASES OF THE MOON

Dark/New Moon
This lunar phase’s energy invites us to a place of darkness and stillness, a watery womb of rebirth where we can begin again if we choose. It’s an ideal phase for inner reflection and sowing seeds of intention for long-term growth.

Waxing Crescent
The sliver of light of the waxing crescent stirs new energy that can help us set our intentions in motion through goal setting and action. Nurture the seeds you planted by taking practical steps toward your desires.

First Quarter
The moon is half light and half dark during this phase, with energy expanding outward. Continue with actions toward your goals, making decisions and dealing with any obstacles along the way. Refine and reshape your plan as needed and continue moving forward with perseverance and steadfastness.

Waxing Gibbous
Energy is rapidly building. This is a good time to evaluate your progress, continue to refine your intentions, and prepare for culmination.

Full Moon
This is the culminating phase of full illumination and lunar power at its peak. It’s a time to celebrate your achievements while also taking some time for self-care, for cleansing and recharging in this phase’s abundant energy.

Waning Gibbous
After the peak, the process of release begins. It’s a time to feel grateful for your growth and all that you’ve learned, while at the same time letting go of any excess that doesn’t serve your desires.

Last Quarter
As the moon is once again half lit, the energy of the last quarter turns inward. Resolve any unfinished business, tie up loose ends, and continue to clear what no longer serves your goals.

Waning Crescent
Also known as the Crone’s Moon, this final sliver of light before the darkness invites us to enter into rest and let go so we can begin anew, whether that be with a new passion project or a new phase of an existing project.

Full Moon Celebration Bath Salt

It’s important to pause and celebrate our achievements in life—both the small steps along the way as well as larger, culminating events. The peak phase of the moon is an ideal time for celebrating these milestones.

I’ve created a full moon herbal bath salt to help you celebrate and honor yourself and your work in the form of self-care and self-reverence. Bathe in the full luminosity of this moon phase and fully indulge in the experience of this luxurious botanical preparation, which will relax and uplift you, cleanse your aura, recharge your spirit, and ready you to fully soak up the potent lunar energy of the full moon.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup Epsom salts

• ½ cup Himalayan pink salt

• 1 tablespoon each of dried rose petals or buds (unsprayed), lavender buds, and chamomile blossoms

• 10 to 20 drops total of essential oil (I like to add 8 drops each of frankincense and copaiba essential oils)

How-to:

Blend the salts together in a glass bowl.

Add the dried herbs and gently stir them into the mixture. Add the essential oils drop by drop, continuing to stir as you do, incorporating the oil evenly into the mixture. If you’d like, put your bath salts on a windowsill beneath the light of the full moon, to be charged by its potent energy.

Add ½ to 1 cup of the salts to your bathwater. Enjoy your full moon bath and celebrate you!

Bring the Vibrant Energy of the Forest Into Your Home

Beneath a canopy of coniferous emerald and autumnal lden boughs, I wander with a woven basket swinging ntly at my side. I weave between the trunks of sentient trees, through fern and hollow; the moss soft beneath my feet is like a velvet path. I move as if I’ve always belonged to the woods, with a sense of peace and a sense of home. The trees whisper an ancient language I understand as I stoop to slowly and reverently gather bits of moss that smell of rain and inky-capped mushrooms blooming in a bed of clover.

Upon returning home, I lay out my forest treasures on the rustic farm table with care: birch twigs, tufts of soft moss, and acorns smooth and shining, still warm from the earth. With eager but patient hands, I begin to play with my treasures, carefully incorporating the pieces together, binding the sticks with twine, and shaping each natural ornament into diamond-like structures. I adorn them with foraged finds, creating pleasing patterns, adding pops of color, and combining textures to make ornamental charms that hold the energies of the forest.

Acorns for growth.
Birch twigs for healing.
Moss for resilience.

When the ornaments are finished, I return with them to the forest, hanging them on low branches, whispering thanks to the spirits of the land. With these natural gifts they gave to me, I make them offerings to show gratitude and to feel the oneness between us. I keep these ornaments hanging in the trees of the forest for a little while so the fae spirits can enjoy and absorb their energy, then I bring them back into my home to serve as decorative, sacred portals that keep me connected to the realm of the woodland.

Make your own

You’ll need:

• Small, fallen tree branches cut to lengths of 5 to 6 inches (there are plenty on the forest floor)
• Hot glue sticks and a glue gun
• A small length of twine
• Adornments from nature: moss, lichen, dried herbs, dried flowers (I like rosebuds and silvery mugwort, as they hold their color), pinecones, acorns, seeds, bones, shells
• Other baubles: crystals (tiny gems and small crystal towers), old keys, coins, ribbons, and other personal trinkets

Instructions:

• Form a diamond shape with four branches, overlapping them where they meet.
• Secure each overlapping corner with a dot of hot glue and some twine wound and knotted. Make a loop through the twine at the top of the ornament for hanging.

• Decorate your ornament by gluing your natural adornments to the sticks. Trim off the brown backing of the moss before adhering it.

Keep your moss looking fresh and green

• Keep your woodland decoration out of direct sunlight.
• Occasionally spritz the moss of your decoration with a fine mist of water.
• Once the color naturally fades, you can bring it back to life by painting the moss with a mixture of watercolor or acrylic craft paint mixed with glycerin and water. Choose a green paint that’s close to the color of your moss. You can mix it with other colors to achieve the best color match. In a separate container, mix one part glycerin with two parts warm water. Slowly add some of the water-glycerine mixture to the paint, stirring, achieving a consistency that is thin but not too runny. With a foam brush, dab the mixture onto the moss and allow it to dry.

See more of Alexandria Corne’s work on Instagram @alexandriacornephotography.

Craft your own mushroom amulet as a reminder that the magic of an old familiar never truly passes. It transforms, like a mushroom in the forest—always offering a little bit of enchantment for those willing to look closely enough.

Materials Needed:

• Foam clay (I use Modelite), 4 to 8 ounces
• A toothpick or other small sculpting tool
• Acrylic paint
• Clear craft sealer (I use Mod Podge spray concealer)
• Hot glue and a glue gun
• An eye pin
• A 24-inch length of cording of your choice
• A crystal of your choice (optional)

To form the mushroom cap, start with a ball of foam clay.

Roll it between your palms until the ball is nice and round. Then flatten it slightly on bottom. You can press the edges of the cap gently with your fingers to create a subtle, curled edge that mimics the natural look.

To form the stem, roll a smaller portion of clay into a cylindrical shape. Don’t worry about making it perfectly smooth; uneven texture and imperfections will add character. Keep the stem proportional to the size of the cap.

Using a dab of hot glue, gently press the bottom of the cap onto the top of the stem and hold for several seconds to fuse the two together.

If you’re adding a crystal to the stem’s bottom, press it into the bottom of the stem to create a tailor-made space. Remove it when you let the mushroom dry.

Use a toothpick or sculpting tool to add natural texture to the cap and stem. You might want to make little indentations on the cap to resemble the tiny scales or grooves that mushrooms often have. You can also add small dots of white clay for classic “spots.”

Allow your mushroom to dry for up to 72 hours, depending on thickness. Use the directions on the clay package as a guide.

Paint your mushroom in any way you wish with acrylic paint. Once it’s dry, give it a coat of sealer for protection.

If making a corded amulet, push an eye pin through the top of the cap and add a small drop of glue to hold it in place.

When the glue is dry, string with cording of your choice. Glue in your crystal and allow to dry.

Note: You can always push stiff wire into the bottom of the stem after painting and then seal your mushroom again if you want to use it for a yard or garden project. A group of these shrooms will stand up perfectly and add a bit of magic to any garden party or event. They might even attract a familiar!

I’ve always wished I could wear strings of dew-laden spider silk, so I played around with some hot glue and cabochons to create this necklace you see here. It’s my little homage to one of the most beautiful things in nature: a sparkly spider’s web shimmering in the morning sun.

You’ll need:
• Glue gun with glue stick
• Parchment paper
• Scissors
• Rhinestones or dewdrop cabochons (I used dewdrop water droplets by Maitys)
• Necklace chains
• Pliers or wire cutters
• A clasp

This necklace is simple to make, but it looks like it was fashioned with magic!

Use a glue gun to create a web over parchment paper. You might want to sketch out the web on the parchment paper first and then follow your lines with glue, which will adhere as long as the glue is reasonably hot. Otherwise, you can freestyle and see what looks good to you. Either way, don’t place the glue in perfect lines; weaving your web haphazardly will help make it look more natural.

To prevent each line from being gloopy, continue past where you want the line to stop, then cut the ends with scissors after they cool.

When you’ve finished your web, cover the glue with rhinestones or dewdrop cabochons, using a combination of small and large drops. If the gems don’t already have a sticky backing, you can gently heat the web with the top of the glue gun and delicately place the ornaments on the reheated glue. This can be a tricky process; it took me a few tries to perfect this technique!

Attach the necklace chains with another dab of glue on each corner and then add the clasp.

Once everything is dry, pull the glue web from the parchment paper. It should come right off!

Add sparkly beads to your chain for more dew around your neck.

Now you can adorn yourself with a gossamer necklace fit for a fairy queen!

It’s fragile and may last only a little longer than the webs it imitates, so handle with care. But how beautiful a thing it is while it lasts!

Visit Bridget at floraforager.com or on Instagram @flora.forager.

Summer is finally here, abundant and alive—yet so fleeting.

Its magic lies in its impermanence, how it urges us to savor each sun-soaked day.

Summer joy for me means gardening and weekend trips to the farmers market. By midsummer my herb garden is overflowing with parsley, basil, chamomile, lavender, mint, and more. A mix of herbs and flowers makes a magical summertime bouquet that you can enjoy fresh for a few days and then hang up to dry. I harvest herb bunches, tie them into bundles, and hang them up to dry too.

If you want to dry your own flowers and herbs, you’ll need something to hang them on. An herb and flower drying rack can be anything as simple as a peg in the wall, but if you’re like me, simple isn’t always enough. I want to make everything extra pretty and extra magical, and if it attracts a fairy or two, so be it! Whether you gather from your own garden or choose to harvest from the farmers market, this tutorial will show you how to create a gorgeous herb and flower drying rack to dry—and show off—all your most shimmering garden delights!

MATERIALS NEEDED:

• One 12- to 15-inch stick, 1 to 2 inches in diameter
• Dried and preserved moss
• 6 to 8 stems of dried and preserved ferns, caspia, baby’s breath, or other greenery of your choice
• Dried flower heads
• A crystal of your choosing, measuring from 1 to 3 inches
• 1 package or roll of natural twine
• Hot-glue gun and glue sticks
• 4 wooden clothespins
• Scissors

INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1: With scissors, cut 4 separate lengths of twine measuring about 36 inches each.

Step 2: Loop one length of twine around the stick, using what is called the lark’s head knot: Fold the twine over itself to form a loop. Pass the loop behind your stick. Take both ends of the twine and pass them through the loop. Tighten around the stick.

Step 3: Repeat step 2 with the remaining lengths of twine. Position the lengths of twine an equal distance apart along the stick.

Step 4: Make a bouquet of greenery, filler, and herbs approximately 8 inches long. Layering different kinds of greenery and filler will give it a full, natural look. Tie the stems together with cording. With scissors or floral shears, trim the stems so that an inch is visible.

Step 5: Arrange the bouquets with stems in the center of the stick and overlapping. Both sides of the stick will now be covered with greenery.

Step 6: Cut 10 inches of twine and wrap twice around the center of the stick and stems. Secure them in place by tying a tight knot with the twine, then trim the excess twine.

Step 7: Hot-glue a cluster of moss in the center to conceal the knot.

Step 8: Add a generous amount of hot glue to the bottom of your crystal (here I used an amethyst cluster) and press down in the center of the moss, holding in place until it feels secure.

Step 9: Hot-glue flowers around the crystal however you like. You can add as little or as much as you want.

Step 10: Make the hanger for your drying rack. First, cut two separate lengths of twine, each measuring 28 inches.

Step 11: Using the lark’s head knot described in Step 2, loop each length of twine to one end of the stick.

Step 12: Bring the ends of the twine together, then tie them. Pull tightly to secure the knot.

Step 13: Clip a clothespin to each length of twine hanging down. These will allow you to quickly and easily hang bundles of flowers and herbs to dry.

Now go forth and gather your own favorite herbs and flowers to hang for this beautiful, fragrant—and practical—home decoration!

I’ve known the magic of journaling ever since I was a young girl.

I cherished my very first diary, a pink patent leather one with shiny silver edging and a delicate heart-shaped lock. Later, I shared a journal with one of my best friends, passing it back and forth, our handwriting alternating and overlapping as we chronicled the ups and downs of high school drama. In college, there was a shift to online journaling. And then, for a long time, nothing. The pressures of adult life always whispered, “We don’t have time.”

After I gave birth to my son, I felt a pang that the tender memories of his early days seemed to evaporate once I fell asleep at night, utterly exhausted. It was then that I made the decision to take up journaling once more. Inspired by the recent bullet journal trend, I purchased my first blank book in years. Five years later, I would be lost without it. It functions as my calendar and memory keeper and as a place to explore my own creativity. In it, I record my days, both magical and mundane: the changing of the seasons, the trials and tribulations, and most important, the ephemeral joy of life’s sweetest moments.

When it comes to my daily journaling habit, its benefits to my life cannot be overstated: It is a safe space for me to process my feelings and brainstorm solutions to difficulties that arise. Even if it’s only managing to write out a single page over my morning coffee or a half-asleep note before bed to record a precious memory, the ritual of journaling has been an anchor for me through the constant ebb and flow of life. It calms my anxiety and gives me a breath to set my intentions, refocusing my needs and goals. Just five minutes a day can often be enough to help me ground and center myself. Try it, and you will see the benefits too!

WHAT KINDS OF JOURNALING ARE THERE?

• Traditional journaling: Ahh, the sweet simplicity of a pen and a blank page ready to be filled with your thoughts. If you’re someone who’s gotta get it all out, this might be your speed.

• Bullet journaling (bujo): If you’re someone who could use a little more structure, this might be the style for you. Bujos are a sort of planner-journal hybrid that have become quite popular in recent years. They often feature calendars, mood and habit tracking, to-do lists, and more. I’ve seen bujos where people record their daily tarot draws, and others that function as devotionals. Bujos are proof that a daily journaling habit can fit into even the busiest of schedules.

• Art Journaling / Junk Journaling: More of an artist than a writer? That’s okay too!Lots of people use art to convey their thoughts and feelings in their journals, and write only a minimal amount. Junk journals often feature pasted-in ephemera: ticket stubs, scraps of fabric, intricate collage. Let your imagination be your guide.

• The most important thing to keep in mind is that your journal can be whatever you need it to be! Try out different styles of journaling, mixing and matching to see what works best for you.

ON CHOOSING THE RIGHT TOOLS:

• The Book: Blank journals come in all shapes and sizes, and the variety can be overwhelming! You’ll find lined, unlined, dot-grid, and more. Before you choose the book for you, think about how you plan to use it. Will preprinted lines interfere with any artwork, or do you need the lines to keep your writing even? Are the pages thick enough? While thinner pages are often fine for pen and ink, thicker ones (140-160gsm) are often needed for mixed-media additions and artwork.

• The Instrument: Just as the magician must relish choosing the perfect wand, I love the ritual of choosing my pens. I’ve recently rekindled my love for fountain pens, and there are many wonderful and inexpensive starter pens available these days. Using a beautiful and dedicated pen for my journal is a tactile delight that inspires me to write, and deciding on the right shade of ink for each spread transforms my everyday words into something truly special. If fountain pens aren’t your speed, try gel pens that glide across the page, easing hand strain and giving you lots of variety.

• The Embellishments: This is where your imagination can truly run free. Give yourself a beautiful place to record your thoughts by decorating your pages with care. I often decorate about a week’s worth of pages in advance, using stickers, washi tape, wax seals, pressed flowers, and colorful markers to add magic to my own pages. Just be sure to use water-based markers so that the ink doesn’t seep through!

JOURNALING: MY APPROACH

Your journal should be your space to celebrate your life. It should be a comforting place to revisit, filled with art and beauty that inspire you to come back again and again. For me, the key is this: As the archetypal Virgo, I’ve struggled with the concept of perfectionism for just about as long as I can remember. My instinct is to pick a template and stick to it rigorously. One of the most surprising yet invaluable things that journaling has taught me is that when it comes to expressing the soul, rigor is highly overrated. I’ve learned to let go of my ideas of what my journal “should” be so that I can let it work for me. After all, who else is it for?

If you peek inside my book, you’ll find a wild mix: calendar setups to help me remember appointments and events, habit trackers that remind me to read and hydrate, and pre-decorated pages just waiting to be filled with my thoughts. There are sections that function as photo albums, with pictures of loved ones and special trips to hold on to. I have pages that are dedicated to seasonal folklore, reminding me to take the time to observe the changes in the world around me. I also make special spreads for reviewing books and perfumes, two of my hobbies.

The most important thing for your journal is that it reflects who you are. Stick to that, and you can’t go wrong!

Visit Christina Allen Page on Instagram @sihayadesigns.

I’ve always been fascinated by witch balls, pagan crafts and their origins—especially the art of making wards, which are magical items intended to protect.

Researching the history of these tools allows me to feel a stronger connection to my magic practice. One cherished example is witch balls, a kind of ward that originated in England during the 1600s. They are used for protection against evil spells, hexes, negativity, sickness, and ill fortune. Plus, they’re gorgeous. They are definitely among my favorite things to make—and are sure to be yours too!

Legend has it that the beauty of mystical witch balls attracts negative spirits thought to be threatening a home’s tranquility. An orb’s swirling colors and uniqueness mesmerize the evil being. After a spirit touches a ball, its malevolent energy is trapped within the webbed strands of glass inside the orb, which prevent the spirit from affecting its surroundings.

Traditionally, witch balls are hung in an east-facing window. But really, any area around your home—whether in a window, on a desk, or even on a porch or elsewhere outside in a garden—is suitable for placing a witch ball to ward off (and possibly trap) negative energy.

Making witch balls is still a popular pagan craft and can take only minutes per ball. They make lovely ornaments for Yule as well as gift giving. Family and friends will love them as special handmade ornaments and will be captivated by the history and magical meaning. Maybe best of all, creating a ball will give you a greater connection to your witchly craft.

I like to begin mine with the clear glass ornaments carried in craft stores. These are especially easy to find around the winter holidays. I add flowers, herbs, spices, crystals, and charms that correspond with a specific intention, such as protection, happiness, good fortune, or peace. You can fill your witch ball as much as you want with your chosen ingredients. I like to fill mine halfway so I can see the individual items inside.

Once you have all your materials gathered, you’re only minutes away from completing your own mesmerizing witch ball.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

Ingredients can vary depending on your specific intentions. It’s totally up
to you!

• 1 3-to-4-inch clear glass or shatterproof DIY ornament
• 1 or 2 4-inch cinnamon sticks
• 1 to 3 sprigs of lavender
• ⅛ ounce preserved moss
• Small dried flowers, ferns, pine cones, crystals
• 8 inches of natural twine
• 5 inches of cording
• Hot glue gun with glue stick
• 10 inches of ribbon
• 1 magic charm

INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1: Remove the hanger from the top of the ornament. Set aside. Before adding anything, I like to smoke-cleanse the inside of the ball with a stick of incense.

Step 2: Carefully, a few pinches at a time, add the preserved moss. Step 3: Put your other elements inside one by one.

Step 4: Add the hanger back on the top of your ornament by squeezing the two metal progs together and sliding them inside till the hanger snaps back into place.

Step 5: Add a tiny spot of hot glue to the base of the hanger and press the end piece of twine in place, gluing and wrapping the twine around the top. Cut excess twine.

Step 6: Tie on a magical charm and add ribbon to the hanger. Your enchanting witch ball is ready to hang in your home—or a friend’s!

Find more of Lemmon’s creations at etsy.com/shop/thewitchnthegoddess, or follow her on Instagram @thewitchandthegoddess.

Featured Image: Model: Eva Marini @hane.iro (self-portraits)

We’ve been charmed for a while now by the lovely, old-timey, and definitely witchy needlework of folk artist Lori Brechlin, who humble old farmhouse with a rusty tin roof and chipping white paint, raising chickens, donkeys, guinea hens, a peacock, a pile of cats and dogs, and a parrot named Peaches, all with her one true love, Peter. Below, we ask Brechlin more about her life and art.

Enchanted Living: How did you get into textiles and telling stories through textiles?
Lori Brechlin: I never had any formal education in any of the mediums I work in—cross-stitch, watercolor, and scherenschnitte (paper cutting). I gleaned knowledge of them from two very talented aunts on my mother’s side who graciously shared with me their sewing and painting tutelage. I learned embroidery later in my teens, and once I had a needle in my hand, I felt a connection to our foremothers who plied their thread to make everyday objects more beautiful. As I grew older, I studied old textiles at historical societies and museums in New England and began experimenting with my own naturally dyed cloth and threads, then stitched motifs from my memory and imagination into my textile artwork. Antique samplers and needlework that hung in my aforementioned aunts’ house held such a fascination for me, I just knew I had to have been a needlewoman in a past life!

EL: What kinds of stories do you tell?
LB: My stories come from dreams, places, and people— some real, others not. Always, magic is sprinkled throughout my works. My stories are those of old times and older ways, when women were not allowed to speak their minds or even have opinions. Needlework was something that allowed us to somewhat control what we wanted to say and allowed us a form of expressive freedom. The characters that I create are kind, loving, and somewhat outcast. My mind can create a whole life and environment for a certain character, mostly for my beloved witches, and I believe that by telling stories we become connected through time and space.

EL: Why witches?
LB: Being the last child of five, I was somewhat left to my own devices, which meant I spent most of my time outdoors. I put many miles on my bicycle pedaling around Stratford, Connecticut, the small town I grew up in. One day I found myself down by the water at a place called Bond’s Dock. It was there I found a stone that was placed in memory of the first settlers of Stratford, which piqued my interest and led me to our local library, where I stumbled upon the name Goody Basset. Goody was accused of sorcery and witchcraft, and she was chased through town and executed by hanging on the Town Hall Green in 1651. This tale frightened me but made me want to learn even more about witches in my town. Goody was exonerated just recently. She’s become my muse and inspiration, and I imagine her in many forms, doing many helpful things—not as an evil person.

EL: How do you incorporate magic into your daily life?
LB: By setting intentions, manifesting and spellwork every single day. Spellwork is just that: writing down (spelling) out intentions that you want to see happen and then manifesting (seeing the outcome) to life. I also sing a lot, whistle, and dance. My daily tasks, like sweeping and dusting, include rituals of cleansing. Hanging laundry on the line to dry in sunshine and fresh air attracts goodness and health. Adding a bit of magic to everything is essential, especially when I sit to stitch or paint or sketch. I will always set intentions in the outcome of my work, so that it makes people happy and comfortable.

EL: What would you say to a reader looking to get into needlework?
LB: For someone who has never put needle and thread to cloth and has interest in doing so, I would say this:

Gather your humblest supplies—not everything has to be shiny and new. Go to thrift shops and look for vintage supplies and kits.

Begin by sitting comfortably and quietly. Have a nice hot cup of tea nearby and then think on your cloth, needle, thread, and hoop as tools you will use to create beauty … your beauty.

Start slowly, and don’t constrain yourself to perfection. Be original and true to yourself. Just let your hand and heart be your guide. If you search the internet, books, and magazines, treat them as inspiration but don’t copy anyone else’s work—doing that is personally unsatisfying and troublesome.

There are many online tutorials, videos, and shops to purchase supplies, kits and patterns that will suit your needs to begin your stitching journey.

I am always happy to help, give guidance, and answer questions as well. And remember: We are all creative. We are all artists in our own right. We are all magical.

Follow Lori Brechlin on Instagram @notforgottenfarm.

Want to try your hand at making one of Baker’s brooms? Here’s how to get started.

Master broomsquire Charlotte Baker of Nightshade Handmade says, “I primarily use broomcorn, which is the seed tassel of a variety of sorghum (Sorghum vulgare). I’ve also used the grass called ‘broom sedge,’ longleaf pine needles, birch twigs, and scotch broom, with mixed results.

“I used to grow my own broomcorn, when I was making only a few brooms a year. Now, I purchase it from a company that imports it for industrial brooms but also sells it in its raw, unprocessed form to broom and basket makers.

Most of my handles come from the woods around my house. I take long walks in the woods in winter, when the sap is down and the trees are dormant, saw in hand, looking for potential handles.

“Harvesting vine-twisted saplings is good stewardship, as being girdled by vines is detrimental to the health of the trees. I also harvest crooked saplings. I’ve made a few whisk brooms using antlers for handles. The antlers were naturally shed ones, found in the same woods as my sapling handles.”

Materials and tools needed:

• Broomcorn (about 2 pounds per broom) #18 nylon cord (for binding and sewing) Wooden handle
• Binding wheel or sturdy stick for holding binding twine
• Scissors
• Knife
• Large needle (butcher’s trussing needle works well)
• Drill
•Tie-off loop, made by tying the ends of a 16-inch piece of twine together

Instructions:

Gather materials.

Place broomcorn stalks in a bucket of hot water so stalks and knurls (where tassel meets stalk) are covered. Soak for at least 30 minutes. Remove from water and drain for several minutes.

Place binding wheel or sturdy stick (with 10–12 yards of #18 nylon twine wound on it) on the floor. Secure loose end of twine to handle, a couple of inches from the end.

Place your feet on the tying wheel and pull twine tight with both hands on the handle. Place a stalk of broomcorn along the handle, with the knurl directly under the twine. Rotate handle toward you, pulling hard so the twine indents the broomcorn. Place another stalk next to the first one, then rotate handle toward you again. Repeat until you’ve gone all the way around the handle.

Lay tie-off loop along the stalks, then rotate handle toward you, wrapping twine over stalks and loop, five or six times, pulling very tightly. Hold wraps down with thumb, then cut twine, leaving a tail several inches long.

Still holding wraps down tightly, put tail through short end of tie-off loop, then pull the other end of the loop, pulling tail underneath wraps. This is called a “blind knot.” Trim tail close to wraps. Trim stalks to about an inch above wraps, using knife.

Secure twine to handle, about 2 inches above the ends of stalks on the first row of broomcorn. Begin adding second, outer, layer of broomcorn using the same procedure as for the inner layer. If you wish to weave the stalks after binding them on, make sure to use an odd number for the outer layer.

After all stalks are added, wrap twine tightly around all stalks five or six times.

Begin weaving the stalks by placing your thumb on the twine and releasing pressure on the tying wheel. Raise one stalk and place the twine under it. Pull twine tight.

Place thumb on the stalk that now has twine underneath, let twine lie over the top of next stalk, then raise the next one and weave twine underneath. Pull tight and continue weaving up the handle as far as desired, and as far as the length of the stalks will allow.

Tie twine off using a blind knot, the same way the inner layer was tied off.

Hang to dry for 24 hours before sewing.

Thread a large needle with a couple of yards of twine, then knot one end with a double overhand knot. Push needle through broom, where you want your stitches to be, locking the knot in place among the fibers.

Wrap twine around broom two or three times, then begin sewing a “lock stitch” by pushing the needle into the broom on one side of the wraps and bringing it out on the other side of the wraps. Make a short stitch over the wraps, and push the needle back into the broom, bringing it up an inch or so away from the first stitch.

Continue all the way around, back to the starting point.

Secure the end by tying a single overhand knot in the twine about an inch away from where it emerges from the broom after the last stitch, then pushing the needle back through the broom to bury the knot in the broomcorn. Add more rows of stitching if desired.

Trim the ends of broomcorn.

Drill a hole through the top of the handle, and add a loop of twine or leather cord for hanging.

Always hang your broom for storage or display, as letting it rest on the brush can bend it out of shape.

“A handmade broom is the perfect blend of form and function, and a delight to use. When I make a commissioned broom, I strive to personalize it by using twine in the recipient’s favorite color and using a handle that seems to fit his or her personality. The simple act of creating art with my own hands is profoundly satisfying and meaningful.”

For this project you will need:

• A large dowel rod about 1 inch in diameter, 2 feet in length
• A spool of 18-gauge nylon twine
• A stick sturdy enough to be your besom handle, 2 to 3 feet in length
• A drill to make holes at the top and bottom of handle
• A knife for cutting broomcorn (a large bread knife works well)
• A sharp pair of scissors or basket shears
• A jerk string (made from twine, as directed below)
• Roughly 1 pound of broomcorn (how much you will need will vary depending on personal preference and the size of your handle—smaller handles may need less)
• Dried grasses and flowers of your choice (I harvested the grasses shown from a local field. You can also use dried items from
your garden.)
• Floral tape
• Large wired ribbon to finish

I find it’s easiest to begin by getting all your materials in order. Drill a hole through the center of your dowel rod. Slip the end of your twine through the hole, secure it with a square knot, and load roughly ten yards of twine onto the dowel rod. Work back and forth evenly in a six-inch space so the twine doesn’t get too thick in any one spot. (This will make it difficult to hold tension later.)

Make your jerk string. Take 12 to 16 inches of twine and knot both ends together to create a loop.

Drill a hole through the bottom of your handle, an inch or so from the end.

Prepare your broomcorn. Start by taking the broomcorn in your hand and wrapping your fingers around. (Imagine you are measuring pasta.) The tip of your thumb should reach the first knuckle of your pointer finger in a circle.
(This is not a hard and fast rule, as everybody’s hands are different.) This is your first bundle. You will need three bundles.

Split each of those bundles in half and then in half again; each of the three original bundles will now be broken into four smaller more manageable bundles. I like to set each bundle in a crisscross pattern so I can grab them easily as I work.

Your first set of four bundles will be the base; add nothing to the broomcorn for these.

You may add dried grasses to the second set of four bundles. I set my grasses on the surface of each without mixing them.

Your third set of four will be the uppermost layer. Here you have options. For ease, I recommend prebundling your dried flowers and binding them with floral tape. You will need to make four of these bundles. This will create a more pronounced look but will be easier to handle. If you prefer, you can do the same as I did with the grasses and simply lay your dried flowers on top of the broomcorn. This will create a more blended look, but the florals may be more delicate and prone to breaking under the tension of the twine.

Have your jerk string, knife, shears, and each layer’s bundles set up at easy reach.

Take your dowel rod and place it on the floor in front of you. Your twine should be coming up and over the dowel and toward you. Place your feet, one on either side. You will be holding the dowel with tension using your feet.

Pull the free end of the twine toward you and slip it through the hole you drilled in the bottom of your handle. Secure with two square knots.

My right hand is dominant, so I place my handle across my lap to my left so that my right hand will be better able to maneuver.

Pull tension and start to wrap twine around the base of the handle, rolling or turning the handle toward you. The twine should be coming up from your feet over the handle, and you are rolling toward your body.

Tension is important! Your besom will be held together solely with tension, so make sure your twine is taut.

Once you have two or three wraps, you can begin adding your broomcorn from the base, broomcorn-only pile.

Holding the handle above your lap with twine taut, slip the bundle between your lap and the handle and place it against the handle. Give yourself three or four inches of broomcorn from the bottom of the handle. You will be wrapping up toward the top of the handle, so having enough working and wrapping space is important.

Wrap tightly one solid round.

Pick up your second broomcorn-only bundle and place it between the handle and your lap and secure it to the alternate side of your first bundle. Wrap tightly again and add the following two bundles in the same manner.

Holding your besom taut, take the first bundle of your second pile, the one with the grasses laid on top. Position the bundle to be added so the grasses are facing up and out on the surface and place the bundle onto the besom.

Take time to visually adjust this layer before you wrap and secure it. You can line it up with the previous layer, or you can stagger it a little to be a bit shorter than the base layer—it’s a matter of personal preference. Once you’re happy with the placement, secure the first bundle by wrapping tight a solid once-around wrap, and then add the next three bundles in the same alternating manner as the base bundles.

Once your second layer has been secured, pause and check your distribution. This is optional but very helpful.

To do so, give six really solid tight wraps, then look at your remaining working space of broomcorn. Angle your twine toward the top of the dowel rod, leaving about 1½ inches of broomcorn. Give a solid wrap around, and then before you wrap further, set your jerk string onto the besom (like setting your bundles) so that the smooth loop is facing the top of the handle, leaving about two inches of loop, and the knotted end faces the bottom of the sweep. Now tightly wrap over the jerk string four to six times, securing it to the besom. Keep in mind that you’re always holding tension.

Slip three or so inches of your working twine through the loop of the jerk string. Do not cut your working twine.

Pull the knotted end of the jerk string until the working twine has been pulled out of the bottom and the jerk string has come free. Your besom should now be held securely. Take your knife and brace your besom on the edge of a table or a bench, handle out. Trimming away the broomcorn in a motion down and away from you, roughly ¼ inch from the twine. Be careful not to cut your working twine.

Work slowly and steadily so you don’t damage your handle. Remove all the excess broomcorn until you reach your handle.

Now you can see clearly if your distribution is even. If your handle is noticeably uncentered, you can go back and correct this before moving forward. Because you’ve added in bundles, you can remove them in the same fashion, realign, and secure them again.

If your handle is mostly centered, and you are ready to move on, you can gently pull your working twine back toward your dowel, releasing it from the hold and rolling the twine back onto the dowel. Unwind until you are back to the single wrap securing your grass bundles, and prepare to add your final layer.

With your final bundles, you will add and stagger this layer as before, placing your floral bundles centered to each addition before securing and adding the next bundle.

Once all four outer bundles have been placed, give two or three nice tight wraps, making sure everything is secure.

With your shears, cut a portion of the extended broomcorn from this last layer as close to the clean edge of the first two layers as you can. This gives you a window to see how much working space you have to continue your final wrapping. From here, continue to wrap until you get about a half inch from the top of the working space. (Use your window to gauge how far.) Once you’re within a half inch, set your jerk string like you did previously: smooth loop to the top of the handle, knotted end to the bottom of the sweep, and wrap tightly four to six times around to secure.

When you come back around to the jerk string, place your thumb with tension on the wrapped working twine, and cut a six-inch tail. (Do not release your tension.) Take the tail and slip it completely through the loop of the jerk string. Pull the knotted end until the entire length of tail and the jerk string have come through and are now secured. Release your thumb, trim the tail to about a half inch, and carefully singe the end with a lighter or a candle.

Using your knife or your shears, you can trim off the excess broomcorn from the last layer.

Give your besom a spin, and decide which side is the front. Then drill a hole at the top for hanging it.

Once you’ve decided on your front, cut a length of ribbon and tie your bow accordingly.

Broom care tips: Broomcorn is a natural material, so hanging your besom in a place with high moisture may lead to mold. Ideally, cool dry spaces are best. Hanging your besom in direct sun may lead to brittleness and cause it to fade over time.

Congratulations, you’ve just made yourself a lovely Harvest Besom. Enjoy!

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